Thank you

Over the past month or so, thanks to all of your extremely generous donations, we were able to raise $5,170 for Rostro de Cristo and Nuevo Mundo!!! Small change to some, but I promise that every single dollar you gave will make a daily impact in Ecuador.

I've mentioned Rostro's retreat program in my blog where it all began; but the programs that really feel the impact of your donations are the three after school programs Rostro runs in Durán--Manos Abiertas, Semillas de Mostaza, and Valdivia. The retreat program pays for itself (through fees Rostro charges the schools), and the surplus from the retreat program goes toward covering most of the US overhead. So that means that 91 cents of every dollar you gave goes straight to Ecuador and running the day to day work of Manos, Semilla, and Valdivia.

Every day, all three after school programs provide pan, guineos, vitaminas y agua (bread, bananas, vitamins and clean water) to anywhere from 100 - 200 kids aged 5 - 15. The vitamins get donated, pan costs 5 - 10 cents/roll, agua is $1.50 per 5 gallon jug, and guineos are $3.50 per crate of 150 or so bananas. So if you donated $15, you paid for enough bread, clean water, and bananas for 30 - 50 kids at Valdivia for a week.

I've blogged about the ASP's a couple of times--I gave some background on all three when I first got down there, posted some pictures from my summer vacation working at Valdivia, and mentioned Manos Abiertas when I spent some time in Ventiocho de Agosto. Unlike Mundo, Chicos, Santiago, Damien, and the other partner organizations that volunteers work at, all of our ASP's were founded by and continue to be run completely by Rostro volunteers and Rostro's Ecuadorian staff.

First with Valdivia in 2000, then Semillas in 2001, and Manos in 2005, each of these programs was started by my predecessors who saw needs in their communities and took actions to make a change. Kids who live in a one bedroom house with their parents and five siblings--Valdivia gives them a peaceful place to do their homework. Kids whose education is rarely more than copying notes from a blackboard during class, then recopying them in their notebooks for homework--Semillas teaches them to think critically. Mothers who wake up before dawn to ready their oldest kids for school, then take care of the youngest kids all day--Manos gives those mothers a couple hours to themselves every afternoon.

A little bit of babysitting, a little bit of education, a little bit of needed nutrition, and a whole lot of FUN; all of the after school programs reach out to those essential needs of families in Durán and show them that we care. All the parents of these kids know that there are hundreds of North Americans--whom they probably will never meet--who give generously to ensure that their kids get that little extra help they need.

All these faces, all the children in these pictures--these are the people I think about every day now that I'm home. These are my friends whom you are now connected to through your generosity. These are the people I think of when I find myself on the verge of tears, alone on an airplane, trying to make sense of it all.

I wish I could say your donations were going to change the fate of these kids. I wish I could say that $5,170 can change the cycle of poverty and guarantee a better life for my friends in Durán. But these issues are systematic--deep seeded in history, politics, imperialism, oppression, unjust economics--they go so much deeper than three little after school programs can ever hope to solve. What I can tell you, though, is that these after school programs bring hope to their communities every day. A hope that comes with knowing that there are people in the United States, who may not have perfect lives themselves, but still care enough to help kids in Durán who they've never met. A hope that healthy, educated kids who learn to think critically can someday break that cycle themselves and create lasting change.

And for that hope, I thank you from the bottom of my heart.

mi acción de gracias

Turned on the news today and people are literally getting killed at Black Friday sales... I'm not saying don't buy your family Christmas presents, but maybe we should think about where our priorities are?

Just yesterday the entire country celebrated Thanksgiving. Family and friends gathered, gave thanks for all we have, shared meals, and enjoyed each other's company. Then a few short hours later, everyone loses their shit and people are literally getting shot, stabbed, and pepper sprayed outside of shopping malls.

We have so much to be thankful for, it's ridiculous. Today I wanted to write a blog about some of the things most people don't have in Ecuador that I'm thankful we have in the States. You know, running water, clean water, paved roads, access to healthcare (it's not perfect, but we've got it better than most), education, job opportunities (you think unemployment is bad here...), etc. 

But instead, I think about all these things that make our lives easier; and when I hear about people losing their shit over Christmas shopping, I'd trade it all to be back in Ecuador. I'm not proud of that America.

Don't get me wrong. Ecuador is not without it's problems, and not everyone in the States is a deal-hungry pepper sprayer. But there are times when I think about just how much crap we have, how we can never have enough (as epitomized by this day), and I wonder what all this convenience has done to our priorities. 

Thanksgiving, Christmas, this whole "season" is supposed to be about reflecting on the gifts we already have, being with the people we care about, looking toward a new year, a new beginning, and maybe making a change for the better. 

So what am I thankful for this year? A roof over my head. Clean, running water. A/C when it's hot, and heat when it's cold. A job. Health Insurance. More than enough food. Not having parasites in my intestines. All those things that make life a little easier. But more importantly, I'm thankful for the people in my life--you, my family, my friends, my neighbors, former students, etc. All the convenience in the world can't replace a real, genuine relationship. 

So, as we celebrate the first day of Christmas shopping season, I ask you again to help support Rostro de Cristo and Nuevo Mundo. You don't have to wrestle any soccer moms to buy this gift, and I promise you it will make a difference in Ecuador. 

Below is the link to Rostro de Cristo's giving page, where you can donate with a credit card, debit card, or PayPal. Since Nuevo Mundo doesn't have a US 501(c)3 (it's an Ecuadorian Foundation with no US presence), Rostro has agreed to receive all donations, then pass on half to Nuevo Mundo. All donations are fully tax deductible.

http://www.rostrodecristo.org/give/index.html

On the "Review Your Donation Screen" (after you enter your card info or sign into PayPal), please enter "Mark Perlite" in the "Add special instructions to the seller" field so Rostro can tell me how much we raise at the end of the month.

Or, if you would prefer to make your donation via mail please send a check (with "Mark Perlite" written in the memo) made payable to:

Rostro de Cristo

P.O. Box 920433

Needham, MA 02492

As I mentioned in my appeal, my goal for this month is to raise $5,000: $2,500 for Rostro de Cristo and $2,500 for Nuevo Mundo. A lofty goal, but I email these blogs out to about 100 people, and at $50/person, I think that should get us there (someone check my math, I'm terrible with numbers). Obviously not everyone can give $50, but hopefully some people give more, some people give less, and we can get to that $5,000 goal. If you could at least give $10, it would mean a lot to me--not to mention all the Ecuadorians each of these incredible foundations serve.


Thanks again!

Mark

where it all began

As I mentioned in my appeal, I'm raising money for the two foundations I worked with last year in Ecuador-- la Fundación Rostro de Cristo y la Fundación Nuevo Mundo. So far, you've heard a lot about Nuevo Mundo--from my first few weeks teaching there over a year ago, to witnessing the 14 seniors I taught graduate last January, to Pat McTeague's talk with visiting retreat groups. Today I'd like to tell you a little more about Rostro de Cristo, specifically the retreat program we run with high schools, colleges, and parish groups from the States.


Rostro de Cristo was founded in 1988 by Fr. Jim Ronan, a parish priest from the Boston area. Fr. Jim joined the St. James Society, which meant volunteering to serve as a priest for 5 years in Peru, Bolivia, or Ecuador. Fr. Jim was assigned to a parish in the oldest part of Durán, which was beginning to see a huge influx (or invasion) of Ecuadorians moving from the countryside to Durán, where they could squat or buy cheap land and work in the big city--Guayaquil. Durán quickly balooned to a city of over 500,000 people, most living in cane houses built over the swamps of the Guayas River. With such sprawling poverty unlike anything in the States, Fr. Jim began inviting high schools, college, and parish groups down to Ecuador to see Durán for themselves and meet some of the people who live in this reality every day.

Fr. Jim with Pat McTeague and Sonya Rendón, founders of Nuevo Mundo
outside the newest Rostro de Cristo house in Mount Sinai, Guayaquil

Before Fr. Jim's 5 years were up, he began recruiting volunteers to live in Durán and help continue the program--to receive the retreat groups, show them around, keep them safe, translate, and introduce them to their friends and neighbors in Durán. Over the years, the program grew, working with partner organizations like Nuevo Mundo to build volunteer and retreat houses in the Antonio Jose de Sucre neighborhood in 1994; the Arbolito neighborhood in 2003; and the newest invasion community, Mt. Sinai in western Guayaquil, in 2010. From one volunteer living with Fr. Jim to now sixteen volunteers living in three different communities in Duran and Guayaquil.

visiting Damien House with Cabrini College

The retreat program now hosts 26 groups a year--mainly Catholic high schools and colleges who stay anywhere from 6 - 12 days. One volunteer is responsible for leading each retreat, so with sixteen volunteers, most volunteers lead about two groups per year. The primary function of the retreat program is education--to expose and educate North Americans on the realities of the developing world, to meet and get to know real people who live these realities, and to witness firsthand some of the work being done by Ecuadorian partner foundations to change these realities.


Before a group even gets to Ecuador, Rostro provides them with extensive background information on Ecuador and the developing world; so the first day in country, retreatants dive right into neighbor visits. Volunteers and retreatants live in houses in the hearts of these developing communities, so we often literally walk just next door to talk to neighbors. Most neighbors have known the Rostro community for years, and are more than happy to share their homes for an hour or two with retreat groups.

visiting friends with my Dad

These conversations can be anywhere from terribly uncomfortable (imagine a dozen gringos crammed in a one bedroom cane house when it's 100 degrees out trying to make conversation with Ecuadorians through a translator while the pet dogs, cats, ducks, chickens, rabbits, and geese are all making noise in the back of the house); to hilarious (some of the neighbors love to push the retreatants for all the juicy details on their boyfriends, girlfriends, or "amigos especiales"); to heartbreaking (when a neighbor opens up about deaths that didn't need to happen because healthcare is non-existent; or husbands, sons, sisters, brothers they haven't seen in years because they work three jobs and live illegally in the States or Europe).


Whether it's a lighthearted chat or a visit that leaves everyone in tears, what retreatants most often realize is how close we really are to people who on the surface would seem so very different. Through the language barriers, economic barriers, geographic barriers, we all laugh, we all cry, we all love.

sharing a birthday with neighbors

And as simple as that may sound, that is an integral part of the retreat program. Compared with other 3rd world "service trips," retreat groups don't actually do any work in Ecuador; they don't build houses, paint buildings, or give handouts. Rather, retreatants come to Ecuador to be with the Ecuadorian people, to listen to them, to learn from them, to share their time with them. Instead of leaving with a sense of accomplishment--"I built a house"--retreatants leave with relationships, memories of the people they took the time to be with. The hope being that that memory, that person you connected with will be a constant reminder of not only how much we have, but moreso how much we owe to those who don't.


And so, again, I ask for your help. Rostro has very little overhead in the States--from every dollar you give to Rostro, 91 cents goes straight to Ecuador, ensuring that the retreat program, the volunteer program, and our partner organizations in Ecuador can continue to do work where it is needed the most.


Below is a link to Rostro de Cristo's giving page, where you can donate with a credit card, debit card, or PayPal. Since Nuevo Mundo doesn't have a US 501(c)3 (it's an Ecuadorian Foundation with no US presence), Rostro has agreed to receive all donations, then pass on half to Nuevo Mundo. All donations are fully tax deductible.

http://www.rostrodecristo.org/give/index.html

On the "Review Your Donation Screen" (after you enter your card info or sign into PayPal), please enter "Mark Perlite" in the "Add special instructions to the seller" field so Rostro can tell me how much we raise at the end of the month.

Or, if you would prefer to make your donation via mail please send a check (with "Mark Perlite" written in the memo) made payable to:

Rostro de Cristo

P.O. Box 920433

Needham, MA 02492

As I mentioned before, my goal for this month is to raise $5,000: $2,500 for Rostro de Cristo and $2,500 for Nuevo Mundo. A lofty goal, but I email these blogs out to about 100 people, and at $50/person, I think that should get us there (someone check my math, I'm terrible with numbers). Obviously not everyone can give $50, but hopefully some people give more, some people give less, and we can get to that $5,000 goal. If you could at least give $10, it would mean a lot to me--not to mention all the Ecuadorians each of these incredible foundations serve.


Thanks again!

Mark




another birthday with neighbors... MY birthday!
(and Jessie and Henry, too)



My Appeal

Today I am asking my family and friends to help support the two foundations that will forever be a part of my life: Fundación Rostro de Cristo and Fundación Nuevo Mundo.

Before we left for Ecuador last year, each volunteer was asked to raise $2,500 to help Rostro de Cristo cover the costs of our programs--food and stipends for volunteers; salaries for our guards and program staff; and, most importantly, daily bread, bananas, and water for the kids at our three After School Programs. I didn't ask for money back then a) because I was already planning a fundraiser for St. Anthony's, and b) I hadn't yet been to Ecuador, so I couldn't really tell you from personal experience what I was raising money for. Sure I knew Rostro was a great foundation, but I felt weird asking people for money when it wasn't even real for me yet.

So, I paid the $2,500 out of my savings, and told myself that after this year, if this is something worth my family and friends' money, then I would ask them for help. And here we are. You've been with me all year. You've seen my pictures. You've read my blogs. I've caught up with a lot of you personally these last two months. I would not be writing you right now if this did not mean something very very special to me.

Rostro de Cristo and Nuevo Mundo are like any other non-profit these days--they badly need money to stay open every day. The seniors I taught last fall were the last seniors to graduate from Nuevo Mundo because the foundation could no longer financially support a full high school--now the school only runs through the 9th grade.

In the past I've held fundraisers--concerts, raffles, t-shirt sales--to support the causes close to my heart. From 2007 - 2010 I worked with dozens of different friends to hold events that raised over $15,000 for St. Anthony's and Doctors Without Borders (after the Haitian Earthquake). Today, though, instead of appealing to your love of raffle prizes, sweet t-shirts, live rock 'n roll, and cheap drinks, I want to appeal to your heart. Yeah, I know that sounds a little corny--and don't worry, I'm not done partying for a good cause--but this time, I just want to focus on the act of giving--nothing in return, just knowing that your small sacrifice will make a huge difference in the lives of my new friends, my new family, in Ecuador.

So I come to you, my friends, my family, and ask you to help support something very personal, very important to me. This month we celebrate Thanksgiving (believe it or not, they know about it in Ecuador too, and call it Acción de Gracias), and it's in this spirit of gratitude that I ask for your help. I will forever be thankful for the experiences these two foundations gave me this past year--I could never repay them for the impact they have had on my life, but I'd like to try.

My goal for this month is to raise $5,000: $2,500 for Rostro de Cristo and $2,500 for Nuevo Mundo. A lofty goal, but I email these blogs out to about 100 people, and at $50/person, I think that should get us there (someone check my math, I'm terrible with numbers). Obviously not everyone can give $50, but hopefully some people give more, some people give less, and we can get to that $5,000 goal. If you could at least give $10, it would mean a lot to me--not to mention all the Ecuadorians each of these incredible foundations serve.

Below is a link to Rostro de Cristo's giving page, where you can donate with a credit card, debit card, or PayPal. Since Nuevo Mundo doesn't have a US 501(c)3 (it's an Ecuadorian Foundation with no US presence), Rostro has agreed to receive all donations, then pass on half to Nuevo Mundo. All donations are fully tax deductible.

http://www.rostrodecristo.org/give/index.html

On the "Review Your Donation Screen" (after you enter your card info or sign into PayPal), please enter "Mark Perlite" in the "Add special instructions to the seller" field so Rostro can tell me how much we raise at the end of the month.

Or, if you would prefer to make your donation via mail please send a check (with "Mark Perlite" written in the memo) made payable to:

Rostro de Cristo

P.O. Box 920433

Needham, MA 02492

Thanks!

Mark

What's Next?

Alright, I know I'm back in the States and Rostro no longer lists me as a current volunteer, but my ass is still unemployed, so I'm gonna keep writing. Deal with it. Through all this transition time, one thing I keep coming back to is this little thing we call the "What's Next?" talk. I'm sure I've mentioned this in previous posts, but in addition to our works sites, a big responsibility of being a Rostro de Cristo volunteer is hosting the 26 high school and college retreat groups who come down every year from the States. The retreats usually last anywhere from 7-10 days, and on the last day, we give this talk/guided reflection we call "What's Next?"

Now that I'm back, I've been doing a lot of the same kind of reflecting on my year in Ecuador, and what I'm going to do with that going forward. One thing I keep coming back to--one of the most powerful parts of the retreats, in my opinion--is taking the retreatants to Nuevo Mundo to meet Patricia McTeague. Pat first came to Ecuador as a nun in the late 60s, and she saw education as the tool to empower Ecuadorians to lift themselves out of poverty. In the early 80s, after a whole lot of "now's not the time" answers from the church/nunnery, Pat quit the sisterhood, partnered up with Sonya Rendón, and with $4,000 started the Fundación Nuevo Mundo in Sonya's parents' house. Today, the morning school offers the best education money can buy to Guayaquil's elite, all while subsidizing the education of hundreds (thousands over the past 30 years) of kids from the poorest areas of Guayaquil.

Seeing the impact this school has had on countless families, students, alumni, etc. is enough to inspire anyone, but talking to the founder herself can literally be a life changing experience. In not so many words, Pat is a bad ass bitch, and she does not pussyfoot around what she expects out of people. Her favorite statistic to throw at retreatants (most of whom come from expensive private Catholic high schools and universities) is that only 1% of the world's population gets a college education. Pat asks each student individually "What are you studying?" "What do you want to do when you graduate?" and "How are you going to change the world?" Heavy shit. Coming from someone who actually is changing the world, these questions carry weight.

Being in this 1% is a gift, a privilege--without a doubt--but for Pat, it's so much more than something to be thankful for. It's a goddamn obligation to use that gift, that privilege, that power to do what that other 99% can't do to make the world a better place. 99% of the world--maybe more--will never have the opportunities we have. That is the status quo--the nature of the unjust world we live in. Being in that 1%, though, we have the opportunity, the power to speak and act for those who can't. To work for a more just society, where maybe one day 2% or--God forbid--3% can get a college education.

And then Pat gets all serious and tells them something like "I'm old. I'll be long gone before you start doing something with your life. But I know I'm going to heaven. So when you get there, and you didn't do anything to make the world a better place, and you say 'I didn't know what I was supposed to do,' I'll be there, and I'll tell you. Yes you did. On this day in 2011, in Ecuador, the crazy bitch with the white hair told you what you had to do."

I've heard Pat bring down the wrath of God on at least 1/2 a dozen retreat groups, and every time I get a little lump in my throat when she gets to the "I'm telling you today what you have to do" part. You don't have to be Catholic or even believe in heaven and hell to get the point. We are that 1% who have the education, who have the power. Whether it feels like we can make a change or not, the fact is we can--if we choose to. Pat listened to her heart and did what she knew was right--not what the nuns or everyone else expected of her.

So, just as the retreatants reflect on their 7-10 days in Ecuador, here I am reflecting on my 365 days. Thinking about what Pat McTeague said--what am I gonna do to change the world? Thinking about working at Nuevo Mundo--the kids I taught who work way harder than I ever did, but don't have anywhere near the number of opportunities that I had. Thinking about the struggles of poverty--abusive husbands/fathers, teenage moms, non-existent healthcare, kids who can't go to school because they have to work, and kids who can go to school but are in a classroom with eighty other kids. But mostly I'm thinking about all the friends I made--the people who opened their homes, opened their lives to me this year. Shared their joys, struggles, laughter, and tears with me. Faces I will never forget. Thinking about going back to visit these friends, and what I'm going to have to say to them. What did I learn from this year I spent with them, and what am I going to do about it?

Don't worry, I don't have any answers yet. Not even close. Right now I'm just trying to get settled back in San Francisco (ask any of my former students, and they'll tell you where the best city in the world is). But these questions aren't going anywhere. And I'm never going to forget this year.

The Picchu

After a total of three hours sleep the two previous nights, three airport runs, and demasiado tearful goodbyes in Duran, I hopped a plane to Peru on Saturday morning, August 13th. Little layover in Lima, then got into Cusco around 5pm, thrilled as hell to see Chris Peterson's ugly ass waiting for me outside the airport. I think his first words were "Brother! You look like shit!" The lack of sleep, emotional drain of the goodbyes, and going from a sea level equatorial climate to the top of the damn Andes threw my body for a loop, to say the least. My body still isn't used to sub 80 degree temperatures, but those first two days in Cusco were the worst--no matter what I did, I literally could not get warm.

All good though... that's why they make mate de coca, right? We went out to dinner that first night and I got after a big plate of lomo saltado and washed it down with a nice warm cup of coca leaf tea. We went to bed early so I could catch up on some sleep, then we hit the hiking first thing Sunday morning (with more mate de coca for breakfast, claro). Chris had booked us on a four day trek to Machu Picchu starting Tuesday morning, so we wanted to get me acclimated to the altitude as soon as possible. He took me up to a few vista points above Cusco and we checked out a couple ruins and old Incan caves. Amazing stuff, but I felt like the fat kid in gym class huffin and puffin the whole way, asking Coach Peterson for water breaks every 20 minutes.

click here to see pics from the Cusco 
ruins and stove building in Pachar

Sunday night we bussed to Urubamba, a little town in the Sacred Valley a couple hours from Cusco. We woke up early Monday and spent the morning building stoves in the community of Pachar, just outside of Urubamba, with ProPeru, the volunteer program Chris is working with. After my year in Ecuador, it was really cool to see another volunteer program and the different work they were doing in Peru. The community was incredibly grateful (both the families we built stoves for fed us delicious lunches), and you could tell that the stoves were really going to be a positive thing for the communities. Click here for more info about the Pro Peru Stoves Project.

We headed back to Cusco Monday afternoon, ran into a little parade (pics in the album above), then got to bed early for another early morning Tuesday. Our 4 day Machu Picchu trek started right away with a 6am pickup, breakfast, then van ride up to the Abra de Malaga Pass, at 4,350 meters above sea level. From there, we started a 3 and a half hour bike ride, during which we literally went from the snowline at the top of the Andes to tropical jungle at 1,430 meters above sea level. Needless to say, we had to stop halfway to strip some layers.

click here to see pics from days 3,4,5 
on the road to Machu Picchu... 
biking, rafting, hiking, zip-lining

After the bike ride, we lunched, had a little nap, then did some white water rafting on the Rio Urubamba. We stayed in Santa Maria Tuesday night, then Wednesday morning were up at 6am again to start the hike to Santa Teresa. Stopped by a coca plantation--they assured us that the leaves were for tea, not la cocaina--hiked up to some old Inca trails high in the mountains (see pics in the album to the left), then back down to the river, ending the day relaxing in the natural hot baths of Santa Teresa (yes, the speedo made an appearance, but sorry, no pictures). After the biking and rafting the day before, then hiking all day Wednesday, the hot baths were aaaaaamazing. Cold beer, hot baths, call it a day.

Thursday morning we went zip-lining (pics & video above), then continued the trek to Machu Picchu. We followed the Urubamba River from Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes, where we spent our last night before the Picchu. We left the hostel at 4am Friday morning and hiked something like 1,850 steps up to the entrance of Machu Picchu. Sure we could have taken the bus, but where's the fun in that? We crushed the hour hike in just over 30 mins, and promptly changed our shirts when we got to the top (our guide warned us we would sweat our asses off).

The gates opened at 6am, and Chris and I were in the first group let in (we would have been THE first if it weren't for a group of over-motivated Germans who were just ahead of us on the hike). We had about half an hour to cruise around the ruins before sunrise, which was absolutely beautiful. I'll never forget standing above those ruins in that crisp mountain air with no one else around (after the first hour or so, the ruins just got packed with turistas). We also hiked up Wayna Picchu, the mountain you always see in the background of Machu Picchu, which had some amazing views looking back on the ruins of Machu Picchu. The pictures (link below) should speak for themselves, but looking at them now, it's impossible to capture that feeling of being at the top of these mountains, immersed in this incredible display of human history, and surrounded by just sheer natural beauty. One of the many humbling experiences this year.

pics from The Lost City

no te vaaaaaaaaaaayas, tu eres cheeeeevere

The end is near my friends... just had our despedidas this weekend, new volunteers get in tonight, my last day at Mundo is Thursday, I leave for Peru Saturday, then on August 23rd, American Airlines flight 1455 takes me home to SFO. The past couple months have flown by... still can't believe I'll be in San Francisco in less than a month.

Lots of mixed emotions to say the least. Right now, here, in Ecuador, starting to say my goodbyes, I feel like shit. There's a lot of people I'm going to miss, and that's gonna be a tough pill to swallow these next two weeks. When I think about it, though, I am excited to come home and catch up with all the family and friends I've missed this past year.

I think back to saying goodbye to family and friends this time last year; and that, too, was sad, scary, and very emotional. Sure, things would change over the course of this year, but ultimately, I knew I would be back in San Francisco come August 2011. This time around, though, as I'm saying these goodbyes, I know I'm not coming back. Yes, I will visit--I hope to be back to Ecuador within the next year, and as frequently as possible after that; but I will never live here again--in this community, with these people, sharing every laugh, tear, conversation, good day, bad day, hotter than F, sweaty, normal day.

There's so much that I'm gonna miss about living here. I'm going to miss my friends--miss those experiences we've shared this year, as well as those experiences we won't get to share next year or the year after. I'm going to miss the students I taught this year--seeing them every day, talking to them, laughing with them, playing soccer with them in my slacks and dress shoes, joking with them about who they are and aren't dating, and sometimes just wanting to wanting to tell them to shut the fffront door. I'm going to miss my neighborhood--living on a street where the kids are always out playing and the madres are always inviting me in to eat. I'm going to miss playing soccer with the kids, the hugs and vueltas, high fives and fist bumps, calling each other locos, feos, vagos. I'm going to miss the conversations with neighbors, friends--deep shit about life, family, love, justice, politics, everyday struggles. I'm gonna miss shooting the shit with the guys--playing cards and dominos late into the night, talking shit, calling each other nicknames, telling dirty jokes, and learning every possible word that might in some way have a genital connotation.

I could go on for days (especially about the genitals). There's just so many people and experiences I'm gonna miss here. Deep down, though, I know it's time to go. Kinda like that "enlightened" freshman year of college, I can never go back and do it again--have it all be new. That's the way things go. So for these last few months, I've been trying to live it up as much as possible (hence the lack of blogologue). So many memories I wish I could share. I have a bunch of pictures I promise to put up soon, but for now, here's some highlights from the past couple months:

• Remember Horatio?? He had a good run, but the REAL nickname that has stuck all year is Menendez. Ask me a year ago what I think of when I hear Menendez, and I'll tell you those creeps Lyle and Erik who offed their parents back in the early 90's. Down here, though, Menendez is the blonde haired, blue eyed Argentinian superstar who plays for Guayaquil's pro soccer team, Emelec. My neighbors Don Walter and Don Sergio made Emelec fans out of me early on, so as soon as I got a jersey, everyone started calling me Menendez. Literally Everybody. Anytime I wear the jersey--and sometimes when I'm not wearing the jersey and I'm just being white, blonde, and ridiculously good looking--people will just yell at me: Menendez!!

MENENDEZ!!

While we're on the topic of Emelec (which, by the way is an acronym for the Empresa Electrica del Ecuador, or Ecuadorian Electric Co.), way before Cristian Menendez was the famous white boy on the team, America's favorite ginger-defender, Alexi Lalas played for Emelec for about a month back in '97. Funny thing, though, apparently all anyone here remembers about him is that he was big into the cocaina...

• All night Mother's Day parties... So aparently the Ecuadorian way of showing mothers the infinite gratitude they deserve is to wake them up with serenades on Mother's Day Eve... either with your own voice, with a paid gentleman singer, or with a rented sound system, some salsa CDs, and a microphone that the whole neighborhood can hear. Looooooooovely tradition. Minus the fact that I didn't get any sleep that night thanks to my good friend Edwin (20 something, no more than 5 feet tall, responds to Papi Pitufo, aka Papa Smurf) who apparently got hired to serenade all of South America from his soundsystem 3 blocks away. 

Gina didn't even know that she was in the presence
of an international soccer superstar...

• So my little sister Gina just graduates magna cum laude from Georgetown (no big deal, I'm not overly proud of her or anything), the whole damn world is at her fingertips, and where does she decide to go less than one week after graduating? Fuckin Ecuador to visit big brother. What a gal. After almost 11 months of choppy internet phone calls from the cyber cafe, finally getting to spend some real human time face to face with my flesh and blood was pretty awesome. I took her around AJS, Arbolito, Veintiocho, out to Nuevo Mundo, down to Guayaquil's touristy Malecón 2000, and up to the historic Las Peñas district of Guayaquil for a night on the town. Despite my best efforts with this blog, it's been really tough to put into words all the experiences I'm having here. There's a lot of "you had to be there," or "you had to see it," or "you had to know him/her" kind of stuff, so getting to share even just a few days of this with Gina was really special.

• What do you get when you put 10 teenage boys from well-to-do Cincinnati suburbs in a barrio in Ecuador with no running water, no meat, no cell phones, TVs, video games, iPods, facebook, etc? Lots of soccer, bilingual card games, unflushed shits, penis-carved soap bars, and of course, life changing experiences. One of the ways Rostro de Cristo gets its funding is by hosting high school and college retreat groups from the states. Between the 2 houses in Arbolito and AJS, we've had 26 groups this year; I led 2: Cabrini College in December, and St. Xavier High School in June. My role was part spiritual director, part tour guide, and part babysitter... it was a long week to say the least, but the guys were great, and I think they all got something out of it.

me, the St. X boys, and Oso

• Right after my retreat group, the Rostro de Cristo Board of Directors came down to visit and inaugurate our new retreat house in Mount Sinai. So what do you get when you put a bunch of middle aged white people in a barrio in Ecuador... juuust kidding. Nothing like the high school kids. All the Board members were super interesting people, all with incredible backgrounds in Latin America; so it was really cool show them what we do down here and talk to them about some of the higher level foundation decision making that goes on back home. Who knows where life's gonna take me, but I'd love to get involved in decisions like that someday.

• Did I mention I'm learning to tejer? That's right. Crocheting. Wellington has been teaching me how to make hammocks, and Pastora helped me make a little monedero last month. It's frustrating as all hell at first, but once you get the hang of it, it's really quite relaxing. And it's awesome when you finally have something to show for all your work.

• Saw Transformers with one of the kids from my neighborhood a couple weeks ago. 2 observations: 
1. While Optimus Prime is unstoppable no matter what tongue he speaks, the Spanish speaking Optimus Prime doesn't quite have the stage presence that his English speaking cousin does. 
2. Hanging out with a 12 year old boy with no filter is awesome no matter where you are. Hanging out with a 12 year old boy with no filter from Duran in a "1st world" movie complex/shopping mall is extra awesome. While we were waiting for the movie to start, we cruised the toystore, people watched, and judged the shit out of all the upper-middle class people walking around like their poo doesn't stink. Granted, I was very aware that I was inherently laughing at myself (this mall very easily could have been the San Francisco Shopping Centre, and these people could have easily been me and my friends), but it was still pretty ridiculous. Living in a neighborhood for a year where the average income is $2 a day really puts things in perspective when you walk around a toy store looking at $80 lego sets and $500 Playstations.

New volunteer orientation starts tomorrow morning, Peru with Chris F-ing Peterson the 13th-22nd, then back to the fog (oh how I miss thee) August 23rd. Unless we have another coup or something monumental like that, I can pretty much guarantee this will be my last blog from Ecuador. If you play your cards right, maybe I'll get it together to do one last blog when I get home; but for now, I'm signing off. Thanks for reading. It's been a hell of a year. Hope to see everyone when I get home.

If you've made it this long, I thank you for your commitment. I reward you with one spanish translation: no te vayas = don't leave! ugh... hurts everytime I hear it.

Baños de Agua Santa



Baños de Agua Santa, Ecuador

The baths of the holy water! Where to begin... Baños is this this quaint little town in the Ecuadorian Andes that sits on the hillside of Ecuador's largest active volcano, Tungurahua (16,480 ft). The town is named for it's natural hot springs, and at 6,000 feet and an hour away from the Amazon, Baños is known as the adventure sports capital of Ecuador.


The mighty Tungurahua... there have already been 2 evacuations
this year, but lucky for us, she was sleeping when we visited.

Back in April, a couple volunteers and I took a 3 day weekend trip to Baños, and it lived up to all the hype. We went river rafting, hiked through the Amazon, visited a monkey reserve, ate some cuy (guinea pig), swang from jungle vines, learned about all kinds of bugs and plants that will help us survive if we ever get lost in the rainforest, and of course, relaxed in the hot baths! I took a ton of pics and a couple videos, so I'll let the pictures and videos do most of the talking. The best place to start, though, is probably the last thing I did before I left... jumping off a little bridge in town. Looks like bungee jumping, but you actually jump off one side of the bridge with the rope tied to the other side; so after the freefall, you swing back and forth like a pendulum. Here's the video...

Considering the $18 cash transaction and lack of any sort of "if you die it's not our fault" waivers, puenting probably wasn't the most prudent decision I've made this year... vale la pena though!

So we took an overnight busride from Guayaquil to Baños Thursday night and got in at around 5:30am Friday, April 8th (Standard timing disclosure: I went on this trip back in early April and I'm just getting around to uploading/blogging about it now... we can pretend it was last weekend though). We had absolutely zero plans for the weekend, and Don Diego knew it when he saw us get off the bus. He offered us a place to stay for $6/night, and considering it was dark out, nothing else looked open, and $6 is a great deal, we took it. Kipp, Tasha, and I all got our own full size beds in a room with cable TV and a bathroom with hot water (both luxuries I have not indulged in since the US of A... can't tell you how amazing that hot shower was). We got settled in, took a quick nappy, then hit the road at 9am to go river rafting on the Rio Pastaza (Don Diego hooked us up with some buddies of his who run adventure tours).

Click here to see my River Rafting pics

I'd only been river rafting once before, so I'm no pro by any means, but this stuff was way more intense than the PwC sponsored booze cruise I did on the American River back in '04 (oh the glory days of a public accounting internship...). Full body workout, helmets required, running head on into walls of water taller than the raft, etc. All at the foothills of the Andes as they meet the Amazon Rainforest. Mamazing.

After our half day rafting adventure, Kipp and I did some chompa (sweater) shopping at the local artisan market. In addition to the triumphant baby blue aguila (eagle) chompa I picked up, I also got a sweet-ass mood ring. It was an impulse buy, and after a solid weekend of blues, deep greens, indigos, and purple moods, it no longer changes colors =( Either that or I'm just incredibly boring. Friday night we hit up the famous hot springs beneath the beautiful Cascada de la Virgen (Waterfall of the Virgin--pictures in the album above). After the 8 hour bus ride the night before and river rafting all day, soaking in those hot baths was just what the doctor ordered. I wasn't sure if the European speedo culture had made it down here, but I brought my banana hammock just in case. I mean trunks are cool, but if life gives me a chance to wear my speedo in public, I'm gonna make lemonade. Lucky for me (and everyone else there, of course), I deemed the hot baths of Baños speedo appropriate (sorry ladies, no pictures). Simply liberating.

the triumphant aguila

Day 2 took us into the Amazon for a full day of visiting a monkey reserve, canoeing down the Rio Puyo (like the Rio Pastaza and pretty much every river east of the Andes, it's a tributary to the actual Amazon River), visiting an indiginous Ecuadorian community, and hiking through the selva (jungle) to an incredible waterfall and swimming hole (see pictures below). We even got to do some Tarzan swinging on real live jungle vines (video below... don't mind my all natural exfoliating jungle face mask):

Amazing day, and to cap everything off, Don Diego takes us to this vista point overlooking the whole Puyo River Valley... there were hammocks set up to take in the view, and the biggest rope swing I've ever seen to take it all in (video below).

Day 3 (Sunday) was a half day since we had to get back to Durán to work the next morning. We made the most of it, though, and ate some bbq'd rodent then jumped off the Puente San Francisco (first video above). Here's my album from Days 2-3, which has all the pictures from the Amazon (monkey reserve, indiginous community, waterfall, various flaura and fauna, etc.) and Baños (bridge jumping, guinea pig eating, etc.).

click here to see my pics from Days 2-3

in the Amazon & Baños

Veintiocho

Continuing my theme of posting things well after they've happened, I wanted to share some pictures from Carnaval (yes, way back in early March), and some stories from Veintiocho de Agosto, another neighborhood in Durán where Rostro runs an after school progam.

Like most of Latin America, Carnaval (aka the weekend before Ash Wednesday... same idea as Mardi Gras/Fat Tuesday minus the tittie beads and booze) is huge in Ecuador, and I think it's safe to say Carnaval is my favorite Ecua-holiday thusfar. I can't speak for the rest of the country, but for 4 days in Durán, the streets turn into a no-holds barred paint/water fight all day every day. It's one big hot sticky dirty wet mess.

The pictures below are from the Sunday of Carnaval weekend, when we went out to Veintiocho to play with some of the kids my roommate Jessie works with at Manos Abiertas.

click here to see my photo album from Veintiocho!

I think I mentioned Veintiocho way back in one of my first blogs, but I can't say enough how special this community is. It's only a couple miles from where I live, but in those couple miles, the paved roads turn to dirt and mud, the cinderblock houses to cane, and other than intermittent electricity, all signs of infrastructure disappear. I took some pictures on the drive out there, and it's still dramatic for me to see having lived here 9 months.

Because my job sites are elsewhere, I don't spend too much time in Veintiocho; but my roommate Jessie is out there working with these kids every day. Rather than retell her stories, I thought I'd just let you read her blog here: Impressions on the Heart. I also copied some more background about Veintiocho de Agosto below, from the Rostro de Cristo website, explaining the history of the community and the dramatic needs they face there. The realities of Veintiocho are easily some of the hardest I've seen this year.

Also, NPR came down to Guayaquil recently to do a couple stories on different "social entrepreneurs taking on world problems"--whatever that means. They focussed on a couple programs down here, one of which, Chicos de la Calle, is the shelter/trade school for street boys that Jessie teaches English at in the mornings. This article (I think you can listen to the actual radio show, too) follows Maribel, a single mom in Veintiocho, and her two sons, Hamilton and Christian, who are students at Chicos. Through her involvement in Veintiocho and at Chicos, Jessie knows the entire family very well and often spends her weekends visiting them in Veintiocho. If you have time to give it a read, it's pretty interesting to get the NPR perspective of life down here. Sadly, Maribel is just one of countless mothers here who struggle daily with the demands of raising a family of 7 alone amidst this poverty I see every day now, but could not begin to imagine 10 months ago.

NPR: Ecuadoran Family Finds Refuge With Salesians

Veintiocho de Agosto

Founded on August 28, 1997, this growing community is based around what used to be an active trash dump. Eleven full trucks each made two trips a day, seven days a week, providing a recycling industry for members of the community brave enough to search for plastics and glass products underneath and within heaps of household waste. Herds of cattle and pigs would feed on the trash and, unsurprisingly, various health problems accompany the ever-present insects. To keep their neighborhood from literally turning into a mountain of trash, the people burned all that is non-recyclable; there are horrendous consequences for general respiratory health. For these and other reasons, many childern living in Veintiocho de Agosto are, on average, three years behind developmentally in terms of normal height and weight for healthy Ecuadorian children.

The 28 community was able to build a two room elementary school ("Escuela Particular Alan Lynch") and medical dispensary in April of 2003 with funds raised by Rostro de Cristo and activists in Durán. What started as a small cane structure with less than 20 students has now grown into a school that can educate 150 children, grades kindergarden through sixth. Whereas three years ago most children in Veintiocho finished going to school after elementary school, the majority of graduates from Escuela Particular Alan Lynch continue on with middle school and high school education. The last year alone has seen numerous improvements structurally, as well as more involvement from parents and local citizens. Brick walls replaced the former tarp and metal clad boundaries of the school, and all classrooms now have cement floors in place of former rock and dirt floors. Many of these long-term projects have happened with the help of former volunteers as well as retreat group participants.

Because of the overwhelming health concerns, people working in Veintiocho have realized that many school children who attend Escuela Particular Alan Lynch are malnourished and not able to perform up to their full potential during the school day. In the summer of 2005, a lunch program began to provide nutritious meals for the children attending school. Everyday, a group of mothers volunteer their time to prepare and cook nutritious lunches for about 150 children. This has in turn created more parental involvement within the school and community.

The people of Veintiocho are in great need of medical and educational aid. Once a week a doctor voluntarily visits the school to check children as well as other members of the community. This service is focused on the Alan Lynch school but is open to all residents. Escuela Particular Alan Lynch also houses the after school program Manos Abiertas, where kids can work on their homework and projects in a safe and spacious environment under the supervision and guidance of Rostro de Cristo and Ecuadorian volunteers.

La Última Graduación

I told you I'd be back on the blog soon! I want to tell you about one of the highlights of my year so far. If you can remember back to October--you know, when I was blogging somewhat regularly--I told you about the 14 seniors I taught English to in the Fall (see previous blog here). Well, not only did they all pass my class (come on, could you really see me failing a 2nd semester senior??), but they also all graduated this past January! Now I've been to a few graduations in my day, but nothing will ever compare to this one. I don't even know how to describe it other than that it was a really really special day for everyone there--even the gringo English teacher who had only been in country six months.

First of all, there's all the emotions of any high school graduation--from the high of accomplishing something you've strived toward for years, to the bittersweet goodbyes and realizing you won't be seeing your best friends every day anymore. Then you consider that this isn't just any high school, this is a K-12 full scholarship foundation whose students have to show a dramatic family need just to attend, and they have to maintain a B+ average every year in order to stay,--all while still living in that dramatic family need. Starting with 60 - 70 kids in Kindergarden, then seeing only 14 students graduate, you start to realize how significant of an accomplishment this really is. Most of these kids grew up in cane houses, were lucky to have one parent with a steady income, and shared that 1 bedroom cane house with 4 or 5 brothers and sisters. That's a big generalization and not necessarily true for all my students, but I'd say it's the par for the course--some had better situations, some worse.

On top of all that, Nuevo Mundo is phasing out the last 3 years of high school, so this was the last class high school graduation ever from the Foundation. Two years ago, the Fundación Nuevo Mundo decided to offer scholarships to the top 10 students from the 9th grade to finish 10th - 12th grade in the IB program of the Colegio Nuevo Mundo (the expensive private school that essentially subsidizes the entire foundation school). So while this is a very exciting transition for Nuevo Mundo--especially for those students who get the scholarships--it was also sad realizing that this would be the last group of students to ever graduate high school from the Foundation. So the entire Nuevo Mundo family--faculty, staff, students, alumni, family, and friends--was there to celebrate the impact Nuevo Mundo has had on these 14 graduates and the hundreds of other students over the past 25+ years.

Like I said before, I don't know how to describe it, but it was an emotional day. I'm not a crier, but I was fighting back the waterworks all afternoon. Pat McTeague and Sonia Rendón--the two women who founded Nuevo Mundo over 25 years ago, literally live at the school, and still run the day to day--both spoke, and I can't begin to tell you how inspiring they are. One of my former students, Saira, gave a beautiful Valedictorian speech, and the sincerity with which she thanked her parents and Nuevo Mundo for the opportunities she had been given is something I will never forget. Even the commencement speaker who I had never met before, an alumnus from the class of 2001 (coincidentally the same year I graduated high school), got me feeling all awkward and emotional inside. The impact Nuevo Mundo has on all its students--from the opportunities it offers to the incredible maturity the students develop over the years there--is unlike anything I've ever experienced.

OK, I'm starting to feel kinda like that A-hole friend who just saw a stand up comedian and is failing miserably at retelling the jokes... I don't know what else to say other than I guess you just had to be there. I did record a little video from the graduation, though, so maybe if you watch this you can kinda see what I'm talking about. At the very end of the graduation, all the alumni came to the front of the stage to join the 14 graduates in signing the official Nuevo Mundo theme song...

Yes, that was the sensual voice of Mama Cass singing her 1970 hit "New World Coming" (fun fact this song was also featured several times in Seasons 2 and 3 of the hit ABC drama "LOST"). I also posted a bunch of pictures from the graduation on my Picasa site (where you can also see all the other pictures I've posted from this year). Enjoy!

click here to see my pics of the Class of 2011!!